Coca Land

The altitude has completely killed my appetite. This is fine as the 18 day food-fest on the ship can see me through Christmas. I forced myself to have a bowl of soup for dinner last night - the hotel has an excellent restaurant. It was something traditional with lamb and a bunch of unidentifiable stuff in it. It was a slice of lamb, a bilateral slice with bones that didn't match remotely my understanding of a lamb skeleton. It was delicious, I am fine so all is well in the universe even if it wasn't really lamb.

This morning I managed a slow walk around the neighbourhood - what a sensory overload. Cars and collectivos everywhere, everyone hawking wares, lots of colour and lots of music. STEEP roads with stepped sidewalks so of course everyone walks on the road because it's easier. Lots of deisel exhaust hanging in the non-existant air. That I had forgotten about in my time in Cuzco.

It was still a bit early so I had a nice long stop at the Museo de Coca. Very informative. The Andean people have certainly been jerked around through history by the Spanish, the Vatican, big pharma, the united nations and of course the DEA and co.  People in the Andes tend to chew dried, raw coca leaves to help with the altitude and stave off hunger. It is a frequent offering to Pachamama, the earth mother who figures big in Andean culture. Truck drivers chew it to help stay alert over long distances. I stuck to the tea this time although I did chew some leaves when I hiked the Inca trail. The leaves and tea have none of the effect of cocaine - the production of which requires a series of chemical (kerosene, benzene, sulphuric acid etc.) baths in order to isolate and extract the narcotic bits. The chewing has a mild anesthetic sensation in the mouth especially if taken with a bite of citrus peel or something acidic to speed up the reaction.

They have a little cafe upstairs so I tried an espresso with coca+organic coca liquor - very tingly on the mouth but that may have been reacting with the Diamox. Also had a slice of chocolate cake made with coca flour and with coca leaves - very nice. The two guys running the museum are knowledgeable in world politics and international law regarding all things coca. They have a jaundiced view of their own leader, Evo Morales, former coca grower/union leader. They say he got in on a platform of change but never made good on changing anything. Both guys are very modern, urban mestizos (spanish/indian mix) but they both still consult the local spiritual leader, the yatiri, for advice and they both follow this advice, for instance, on the number of days and the proper days of the week to chew coca.

And then it was nap time.

Had a fabulous visit to the Andean Textile Museum. They have great exhibits from across the Bolivian Andes. There is a bigger range of styles than I was expecting with needlework so precise that it even out does Kay's work, believe it or not. I chatted with the curator, Waldo (yes, Waldo,) for about an hour. The museum sells weavings supplied by various local artist coops. The artist gets 90% of the list price and the museum commits to support program to keep the traditional textile arts alive. It's difficult though with people leaving the mountains for a more lucrative life in the lowlands growing cash crops (like coca) or in the cities where the young people just find it too uncool to be "indian." I thought the prices seemed a bit on the low side - especially for one large piece that would have taken at least six months to make, but he assured me that there is much discussion amongst the artists in setting the prices.

And then it was nap time.

The witches market was interesting - more llama fetuses than you can shake a stick at. They are burried at the foundations of new buildings to appease pachamama. Don't hold your breath for photos. Cameras induce hostility here.  I was considering buying one and seeing if Canada Customs would allow a religious artifact in, but first I would have to get it into Chile. My safer choice was some commercial coca tea bags and various good luck charms. I'm all set for Bolivian road travel now.

And now it's nap time again.